Kathmandu- A middle-aged woman, with spectacles resting atop her greying hair and trekking poles tucked into her bag, moved through the narrow alleys of Pottery Square, Bhaktapur.
Holding up a faded photograph on her phone, she asked passersby, 'Do you know him?'
She held onto the hope that the man who had once left a lasting impression on her life was still there.
Many people she approached couldn’t recognize the man in the photo. Some even told her, with sympathy, that he might have passed away.
But she remained undeterred—driven by a strong belief that he was still alive.
Her name is Minal Raja.
Twenty-four years ago, she visited Bhaktapur and learned pottery at Kumha: Twa, now widely known as Pottery Square. Now 53, she has returned, searching for a familiar face from an old photograph.
Back then, at 29, Minal had traveled alone from the UK and learned pottery during her stay in Bhaktapur. The man she now seeks was not only her teacher but also someone who offered genuine warmth and hospitality.
Her journey spans continents and generations. Her grandfather’s generation had moved from Gujarat, India, to Kenya for business. Her father’s generation stayed in Kenya, where Minal was born. Later, she moved to the UK for higher studies and work.
Her fond memories of Bhaktapur have endured since that solo trip in 1999—and now, with hope in her heart, she’s come back to find the man who helped shape them.
The Reunion
Her search eventually led her to Ganesh Kumar Prajapati’s shop, located at the lower end of Kumha: Twa. Inside, Ganesh was focused on shaping clay on his wheel, crafting incense burners with practiced hands.
Minal waited patiently for him to finish. When Ganesh finally looked up, she stepped forward and showed him the faded photograph on her phone.
In an instant, his eyes lit up.
'Oh! That’s Indra Prasad… Indra Prasad Prajapati!' he exclaimed.
Minal’s face brightened with joy.
'Oh! You know him? Where is he now?' she asked eagerly.
Ganesh nodded.
'He used to work nearby, but now he’s a bit further down the road. Ask at the place where a new house is being built,' he said, pointing her in the right direction.
Minal and Indraprasad, 24 years ago in Bhaktapur.
Now armed with a name and a possible location, Minal followed Ganesh’s directions.
She continued asking locals along the way and eventually reached the spot where Indra Prasad was said to be working.
Minal, searching for Indra Prasad.
The door was closed. Nearby residents told her he might be at home and directed her to a house slightly uphill—with a green roof.
Minal climbed the slope and stopped in front of the house as described. She called out.
An elderly man emerged—wearing a Dhaka topi, a flower tucked behind his ear, and a bold vertical tika on his forehead.
Before a single word was exchanged, Minal gasped with recognition.
With a joyful cry, she exclaimed,
'Yes, that’s him! That’s him!'
Indra Prasad Prajapati
Indra Prasad was momentarily puzzled. But when Minal showed him the photograph, his expression softened. Recognition dawned.
He chuckled, his smile wide and warm.
'Haha… this photo is from when I used to work up there,” he said, pointing toward the direction of his old workshop.
Minal, showing an old photo
A Timeless Connection
Minal felt a sense of peace, as if she had found the 'fragrance of clay' she had been seeking.
Indra Prasad invited her inside, but Minal, overwhelmed with emotions, just watched him. She realized that just like 24 years ago, they were communicating through feelings rather than words.
Indra Prasad was also incredibly happy to see a tourist he had met once returning after so many years, specifically looking for him.
He called his wife, but Minal suggested they go to his workplace instead.
He shared that he had bought his current house after the earthquake, finding it suitable for living.
Indra Prasad's Home
'I always remember those times. Does he remember?' Minal asked.
When her question was translated, Indra Prasad smiled and nodded.
'Yes, I remember. I sent you off after offering you snacks,' he said.
'The big wheel we used to make pots is still at home. We now use a smaller one at the workshop.'
Indra Prasad, now 66, has been making pottery since he was eight.
Over his 58 years at Kumha: Twa, countless tourists had passed through, but he always treated them with warmth and offered genuine lessons in the art of pottery.
Relearning the Art of Clay
Indra Prasad guided Minal to his modest workshop, tucked into a converted corner of the house’s lower floor.
On the way to Indra Prasad's workshop
As they descended the narrow, dark stairs, Minal switched on her phone's flashlight and said, 'I believe in destiny; what you wish for eventually comes true. I finally found him.'
The workshop was simple, equipped with a small electric pottery wheel.
Indra Prasad's Workshop
'This is easier than the old hand-cranked wheel,' he remarked.
Indra Prasad made the space ready for both of them, placing a sack on a low wooden stool and setting out water so Minal could sit comfortable.
'How do you do it? It's been so many years—I’ve forgotten everything I once learned,' Minal confessed.
'Place your hands here, and position your fingers like this,' Indra Prasad instructed, setting a lump of clay onto the wheel.
Minal followed his instructions, laughing as she shaped the clay.
Teaching pottery
'He was such a handsome man back then!' she said playfully.
Indra Prasad, not fully understanding her words, smiled in response. 'Little force, more water,' he said, guiding her with gestures and a few English words.
Capturing the moment
Enduring Hospitality
Indra Prasad's 66 years at Kumha: Twa had taught him much about the connection with clay, life skills, art, and culture.
His genuine hospitality was what made Minal remember him and want to return.
As they worked, Indra Prasad mentioned the difficulty of acquiring clay now, as land plotting had made it scarce.
Minal observed the changes in Kathmandu-Bhaktapur, noting how open spaces had become built-up.
Despite these changes, she found the people of Nepal still maintained their calm demeanor and warm hospitality towards tourists.
Minal recounted her first trip to Nepal at 29, before marriage, when she felt completely independent.
She had read that Nepal was a very safe place for women travelers, which influenced her decision to visit.
Indra Prasad's wife served them tea.
After a few sips, Minal said in Nepali, 'Chiya mitho chha (The tea is delicious),' her soft, melodic accent bringing smiles to their faces.
Tea and laughter
Minal, now retired from a pharmaceutical company in the UK, still teaches Spanish. She had studied pharmacy but also pursued Spanish after university, even teaching English in Spain for a while.
Indra Prasad shared that other tourists also returned after their initial visits, but Minal's return after 24 years, specifically searching for him, truly amazed him.
'People from Germany, Canada, Italy, India—many have come. I'm not greedy for money. It makes me happy when people visit,' he said with a gentle smile.
'This all feels magical to me,' Minal added.
'After so many years, we met again—and I got to make pottery once more. This art is really difficult. They’re incredible artists.'
A Promise and a Farewell
Minal made a clay cup and then a vase. When the vase's shape distorted, Indra Prasad corrected it.
Minal's vase
Minal asked him to write his name on it, promising to return in 15 days after her Annapurna Circuit trek to pick it up.
Minal reflected on the freedom of solo travel, with no fixed itinerary, allowing her to linger where she pleased.
She was still traveling Nepal with that same independent spirit. Her daughter was due to arrive in a few days, and they planned to trek the Annapurna Circuit after exploring Kathmandu, Bhaktapur, and Nagarkot.
After two and a half hours immersed in learning pottery with Indra Prasad, Minal realized it was getting late. She playfully smeared some black clay on her face, embracing the earthy scent and the connection with Nepali soil, adding new memories for the future.
'Oh, maybe I'm going a bit crazy!' she exclaimed.Indra Prasad reassured her, 'No, no, this is good for your cheeks. They won't crack.' Minal then applied clay to his cheeks too.
Laughter after the mud
Indra Prasad put his topi on Minal, commenting that it was a bit small for her.
Before Minal left, Indra Prasad took her to the second floor to show her other items he had made. He repeatedly emphasized, 'I'm not showing you these to sell them. I just want to show you my work.'
His sincerity once again touched Minal, embodying Nepal's warm hospitality towards tourists.
Minal asked him to make two lidded clay pots for curd, one medium and one small, and promised to pick them up after her trek.
As she descended the narrow wooden stairs, Indra Prasad followed, extending an invitation for dinner. Minal happily accepted, with the caveat that she was vegetarian.
'I won't cook meat; we can have curd and vegetables,' Indra Prasad assured her.
'Thank you so much for remembering me and coming back after so many years. I'm very happy.'
Minal also expressed her joy and gratitude, taking photos of the route back to his house, worried she might not find her way back in the evening.
Return from workshop
Memories to Cherish
That evening, Minal successfully navigated her way back to Indra Prasad's home. She had dinner with his family, took more pictures, and added more stories to share upon her return to the UK, just as she had 24 years ago.
Dining at Indra Prasad's home
Tourists typically visit Nepal for its natural beauty, artistic palaces, and Himalayan treks. But for Minal, this trip was about the innocent joy of human connection. She was drawn back by memories and created new ones to last a lifetime.
Group photo with Indra Prasad's family
This time, she left not just with photographs but with the name of a dear friend: Indra Prasad Prajapati of Kumha: Twa.
