Kathmandu-The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee has opened the climbing route through the Khumbu Icefall for the Spring 2026 season, despite a major safety threat from a large unstable serac near the rockfall section.

In an update issued on Tuesday, the committee said a team of eight Icefall Doctors, supported by 16 experienced mountain guides from various expedition companies, successfully established the route up to the Nuptse face and returned safely to Base Camp at around 4:00 PM.

Route preparation began on March 16, with the team securing a safe path up to Section 4, commonly known as the rockfall point, by April 8. However, progress was halted after a large serac blocked the route. Although part of the ice mass has since collapsed, the remaining section continues to pose a serious risk.

The committee, in coordination with the Department of Tourism and the Expedition Operators Association of Nepal, conducted a helicopter inspection on April 25 followed by a ground assessment the next day, both confirming that the risk remains high.

Efforts to find alternative routes were unsuccessful. A team led by climber Mingma G attempted to identify a safer path through the affected section. Icefall Doctors also assessed a proposed vertical route above the serac but rejected it due to unstable ice conditions and the need for around 10 vertical ladders. Attempts to establish a safer central route also failed, leaving no option but to fix the route beneath the serac.

The risk remains significant as the serac measures around 55 metres in length, 28 metres in height, and 37 metres in width, with visible cracks that make it highly unstable and prone to sudden collapse.

Despite opening the route, the committee has warned that the section remains extremely dangerous and has instructed climbers to follow strict safety measures. These include moving quickly through the exposed area, carrying minimal loads, ensuring only one person uses a ladder at a time, and securing harnesses to fixed ropes at all times.

Currently, eight ladders have been installed across three sections, though more may be required as crevasses widen due to rising temperatures. The Khumbu Icefall remains one of the most hazardous sections of the Everest climb and will be closely monitored throughout the season.

The committee has asked all teams to report any incidents via radio frequency 144.200 and expressed gratitude to Sherpa guides and drone teams, including support from Airlift Technologies and local authorities, for their role in route assessment and safety operations.